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Instructions for Installing Window Film
information courtesy of Gila Window Films
RECOMMENDED TOOLS:
GILA® Film Aid application concentrate (or "no-tears" baby
shampoo)
Bottled water (not tap water)
Spray bottle
Squeegee
Break-away utility knife (for cutting film)
Single-edged razor blade (for cleaning glass)
Ruler or tape measure
Soft, lint-free cloth or paper coffee filters (for cleaning the glass and film)
BEFORE YOU BEGIN:
All GILA residential window films are applied directly to the inside glass
surface you can touch inside your home. If you have a removable storm pane, you
may remove it and apply the film to the inside surface of the outermost window,
then remount the storm pane.
Applying window film is a simple process, with only a few basic steps. However,
patience and preparation are very important. Before beginning this project,
please read the instructions completely and carefully, perhaps using a small
piece of film to practice the steps before you actually tint a window. Many
first-time users feel more confident after tinting a few, small windows. Start
with smaller windows before applying film to larger windows, such as patio
doors, which may require two people. REMINDER: ALL GILA residential films
are compatible with standard 1/8" clear residential windows.
However, the Heat Control Insulating™ films are specifically
engineered to be the most compatible with dual-pane (thermopane) and Low-E
windows, whether 1/8" or 1/4" glass.
CAUTION: Do not apply GILA residential films to plastic or
Plexiglas surfaces or to motor vehicle windows. Do not apply any film to
frosted, etched, leaded, cracked, holed, or deeply scratched glass, or glass
that is very old (over 40 years).
PREPARATION:
- Fill a pump - or trigger- spray bottle with a soapy water solution: to 1qt.
bottled water, add a bottle of GILA Film Aid concentrate (or 1/4 tsp of a
no-tears baby shampoo without conditioner). Film Aid offers the best drying
clarity and pH balance. Do not use hard tap water, which can leave spots under
the film. VERY IMPORTANT: This soapy water solution ('the Solution') will serve
as a lubricant for the squeegee during glass cleaning, film application, and
future cleaning. CAUTION: Do not use any household glass cleaner containing
ammonia or vinegar to clean the glass or film; such cleaners can dilute or
dissolve the film's adhesive. However, extremely greasy or smoke-covered
windows may need to be cleaned first with glass cleaner then rinsed thoroughly
with the Solution.
- Plan to use several single-edge utility razor blades to clean the window. A
small utility knife with breakaway blades is the best tool for trimming film.
NOTE: Film can dull a blade edge quickly; and a dull blade can tear film. Plan
to use a new blade after every 10' of film that you cut.
- A rubber-blade squeegee is necessary to press the film onto the window
without creases and to remove the soapy water from under the film. We recommend
a squeegee between 6" to 8" wide, preferably with a flexible blade
and solid handle. A quality squeegee is a good investment because you will use
it to clean the glass, apply the film, and clean the film in the future.
- Use lint-free toweling (paper coffee filters work amazingly well!), not
paper towels, to clean the windows and absorb squeegeed water.
- To trim the film (Step 8), use the edge of a ruler or a 50-cent coin or a
dedicated wallpaper trimmer.
SPECIAL POINTS TO REMEMBER
- Handle the film very carefully. As with aluminum foil, once creased, the
film will remain creased.
- Avoid using concentrated or degreasing detergents to make the Solution or
the film may dry cloudy or fail to adhere.
- Larger windows (3'-4' wide) usually are best filmed by two people working
together to remove the liner, install, and trim the film. (See steps 3 and 5)
- Apply film anytime other than in direct sunlight (film may stick too
quickly) or freezing weather (film will not stick at all). Best temperature is
45-90 degrees F. Best time is early morning or late evening, when the glass is
cooler.
- Work in a dust-free area. Turn off fans. Apply film to windows hung
vertically. DO NOT lay windows down to tint them or you will trap air bubbles
under the film.
- For pretinted glass, we recommend only Low-E Ultra film with a 1/16"
perimeter gap. For 1/4" thick plate-glass windows or Low-E windows, we
recommend only Low-E film.
- Film may be removed, but not reused.
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APPLICATON:
1. MEASURE THE WINDOW
Measure the dimensions (Figure 1) of your window carefully before unrolling and
cutting the film. Film may be applied from side to side, or top to bottom from
the kit roll. Use the measurement that leaves the least waste. You may also
choose to pretrim the film to the window dimensions, less 1/16" on all
sides (see steps 3 and 8 below). |
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Figure 1
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2. CLEAN THE WINDOW
Generously spray the window with the Solution. (Figure 2) (You will use
this Solution throughout the installation process.) Then use your hand
and squeegee to clean the windows thoroughly. (Figure 3) |
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Figure 2
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Figure 3
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| Respray the glass, then use a razor blade to remove any caked
dirt or paint. (Figure 4) Use special care cleaning the corners. Re-wet the
window, then squeegee downward. Wipe off accumulated dirt from the window
gasket with a soft cloth or paper coffee filters. (Figure 5) Repeat process
until the glass is clean. If possible, also clean the outside to ensure total
clarity. NOTE: Paper coffee filters are lint free and can be used to clean the
windows now, and the film later. Remember, the cleaner the glass, the better
the final appearance of the applied film.) |
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Figure 4
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Figure 5
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3. CUT THE FILM
Unroll the film on a clean, flat surface near the window. Use a ruler as a
guide and cut the film 1" larger than the dimensions of the window to be
sure that the film will fit. Of course, you may wish to use the factory edge of
the film for one side of the window. Or, if you choose, pretrim the film to the
final dimensions of each window (including the 1/16" gap described in step
8). We recommend pretrimming the film to final size for French panes,
skylights, and arched windows.
For Windows Larger Than Film Size:
To cover larger windows, you may need to seam the film as you would seam
wallpaper. To obtain a perfect butt seam, vertically overlap two sides of the
film, then use a ruler as a straight edge to guide your knife as you cut
through the center of both layers of film. After cutting the seam line, peel
the loose sheet of film from the top, then lift the edge of the film and slide
out the other "waste" piece from underneath the film. Rewet the
glass, lay down the film, rewet the top of the film, then squeegee the film
from top to bottom in a slow, firm vertical motion. A week after installation,
you should waterproof the seam with a coat of clear fingernail polish
4. WET THE WINDOW THOROUGHLY
Generously spray the Solution, which acts as a lubricant for the film, onto the
inside surface of the window until beads of the soapy water run down the glass.
(Figure 2) If the window becomes dry, rewet it completely before
applying film.
5. REMOVE THE CLEAR FILM BACKING ("the liner")
Take your time with this step: be patient and be careful not to crease the film
while removing the clear, protective "liner" from the back (adhesive
side) of the film. (NOTE: Usually the liner is on the outside surface of the
film roll.) Remove the liner by attaching two 3-4" long pieces of
transparent tape to the front and back surfaces of a corner of the film so that
about 1" of tape is on the film, the rest centered and hanging over the
pointed corner of the film. Press the two pieces of tape firmly together, then
quickly pull them apart to begin separating the clear liner away from the
adhesive side of the film.
(NOTE: This process may require a quick, snapping pull, much like pressing
together and quickly pulling apart two pieces of velcro.) As you carefully peel
the liner away, generously spray the soapy solution onto the exposed adhesive.
This spray helps break any static cling, reduces contamination, and makes the
liner separation easier. Wet your hands with the Solution before handling the
film to avoid leaving fingerprints on the adhesive.
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Figure 6
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For small windows, remove the liner diagonally, from one
corner toward the opposing corner. Try to keep the film from touching itself.
Two people should coordinate the liner separation on a large sheet of film.
For Large Windows and Patio Doors
Removing the liner from a large sheet (i.e. patio door size) involves two
people. Your helper faces the window and holds the film perpendicular to the
floor. You face the liner side of the film, separate the corner of the liner,
slide your finger along the top edge of the film to fully separate the liner,
then peel the liner down toward the floor in a smooth, even motion. After
removing the liner completely, thoroughly spray the glass then the adhesive
side of the film.
6. PLACE THE FILM ON THE WET WINDOW
Completely remove the clear liner from the back of the film and thoroughly wet
the exposed, dry adhesive surface. Be sure the window is dripping wet: too much
Solution is better than not enough. Apply the adhesive side of the film to the
wet glass. Start at the top of the window, then allow the film to gently lay
down onto the glass. Handle the film carefully at the corners to avoid wrinkles
or creases, which cannot be removed. Use your hands to smooth the film onto the
glass. (Figure 7) You can slide the film around and position it correctly so
long as the window and film are thoroughly wet.
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Figure 7
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Figure 8
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7. SPRAY THE OUTSIDE SURFACE OF THE FILM AND SQUEEGEE FILM
CAREFULLY AND FIRMLY
Spray the entire surface of the film facing you with the soapy Solution to
lubricate its surface. (Figure 8) Using a clean rubber squeegee, begin
squeegeeing the water and air out from under the film. To do this, start about
2" from the top and side and squeegee from left to right. (Figure 9)
Second, to set the film on the glass, lightly squeegee the rest of the film
downward, but leave the 2" perimeter area unsqueegeed. (Figure 10) If you
need to remove large air pockets, rewet the top of the film and squeegee again.
If the squeegee drags, respray the Solution on the top of the film. (NOTE:
Always wet film with the Solution before squeegeeing. You can remove any large
bubbles by pushing them with the squeegee to the nearest film edge. Small
bubbles (less than 1/8" in diameter) should disappear in a few days.)
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7. SPRAY THE OUTSIDE SURFACE OF THE FILM AND SQUEEGEE FILM
CAREFULLY AND FIRMLY
Spray the entire surface of the film facing you with the soapy Solution to
lubricate its surface. (Figure 8) Using a clean rubber squeegee, begin
squeegeeing the water and air out from under the film. To do this, start about
2" from the top and side and squeegee from left to right. (Figure 9)
Second, to set the film on the glass, lightly squeegee the rest of the film
downward, but leave the 2" perimeter area unsqueegeed. (Figure 10) If you
need to remove large air pockets, rewet the top of the film and squeegee again.
If the squeegee drags, respray the Solution on the top of the film. (NOTE:
Always wet film with the Solution before squeegeeing. You can remove any large
bubbles by pushing them with the squeegee to the nearest film edge. Small
bubbles (less than 1/8" in diameter) should disappear in a few days.) |
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Figure 9
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Figure 10
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8. TRIM EDGES OF FILM AND SQUEEGEE DRY
Use a sharp razor blade or utility knife and a 1/16" wide guide to trim
the film around the four perimeter edges of the film. This gap is essential for
the proper thermal expansion of the glass and allows you to completely squeegee
the water and air from under the film. Rewet the entire film surface and
squeegee again. Press very firmly to remove all the water so that the adhesive
can cure clearly.
This time, imagine an invisible line dividing the window from top to bottom.
Starting at the top of the window, squeegee from the center to the left, then
from the center to the right. Repeat this process until you reach the bottom of
the window. (NOTE: If your squeegee has a stiff blade, PUSH it toward the
sides. If a flexible rubber blade, PULL the squeegee.) |
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| If "fingers" appear along any edge, wrap your
squeegee with a few paper coffee filters (or soft, absorbant cloth) and
carefully push the "fingers" toward the edge of the film. Hold in
place to absorb any excess water. |
CURING TIME:
The film begins to adhere in 30 minutes and fully "cures" over 4-8
days. Dry, sunny weather speeds curing; wet, cold weather prolongs it. During
curing, the film may initially look hazy or cloudy; this effect will disappear
with time and/or exposure to heat (ie. the sun or a hair dryer).
FILM CLEANING TIPS: Always clean film with the same soapy Solution and a
clean, pliable squeegee. DO NOT USE ammonia, vinegar, household glass cleaners,
papertowels, or brushes.
PRODUCT LIFE: When properly applied and cleaned, window film will
usually look good for quite a few years. Because film protects your furnishings
by absorbing up to 99% of the harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays, the film itself
bears the inevitable ultraviolet damage. As a result, over the years, tinted
films may lighten in hue somewhat. This is to be expected. Overall product life
is affected by climate, geographic location, and exposure to the sun.
REMOVAL: Use GILA Window Film and Adhesive Removal Spray to remove old
film more easily. |